How to make digital photos from film negatives

How to make digital photos from film negatives

Have some negatives you want to turn into digital images? Follow along as I show one way of accomplishing this task. This episode shows what to make, how to …
Video Rating: 4 / 5

Mounting Photos for Display: Ep 223: Digital Photography 1 on 1: Adorama Photography TV.

45 thoughts on “How to make digital photos from film negatives

  1. I don’t understand your slide holder, all I see is some big black disc and
    I have no clue what it is. Also, why not an extension tube to get the image
    to fill the sensor better? A color correction filter on the lens to
    eliminate the blue hue right from the start? I have numerous color slides I
    need to digitize so I’m looking for some kind of setup and I’ve been trying
    to come up with a similar idea. I think we had the same TV dinner trays! :D

  2. Man!!!! Your intense!!! Thorough and full of ALL the information!!! Tiz a
    great vid 🙂 Thank you 🙂

  3. If you have a scanner with sufficient resolution, awesome! For those who
    don’t, this is an alternative. Additionally, I’ve added a link in the
    description someone who gets higher quality with a camera than a scanner.

  4. Hello, thanks so much for this easy demonstration video. I thought about
    doing this, with my canon 20D 8.2mp while I have no photo scanner and I
    will give it a try. My question is how does this set up compare to a
    scanner. For instance, which work flow is faster with higher image quality
    -because I’m concerned that my dslr sensor won’t be as detailed as a photo
    scanner of a high dpi. I’m wondering if it’s worth the little effort to set
    this up and photograph my negatives or wait on a scanner.

  5. I’m glad you found it helpful. In this case, I’m using a negative holder
    from an enlarger because it was at hand and convenient. But for other film
    sizes for which I don’t have a holder, I’ve just used a piece of thin
    cardboard with a hole cut in it taped into position. I’m moving the
    negative by hand just by opening the holder, repositioning the negative and
    closing it back up. Besides the conversion from negative to positive, the
    rest of the post processing is just personal preference. Cheers.

  6. Google translation: “If you can translate Chinese: I want to say is that
    this is really great!” Thanks vensen358!

  7. There are few different ways to play with the colors trought photoshop, I
    just found out a couple and must say, this is genious.

  8. I am very much thankful to you posting the video. I was all these years
    wondering what to do with my rare B/W genitives. You gave a very nice demo.
    Thanks once gain

  9. Thank You for ur post.. which makes it possible to make digital picture
    easily in my low budget photography scheme… really adorable innovative
    idea to be shared with others… Thanks once again… wishing to post such
    type of innovative video for the benefit of the armature photographer
    running in low budget..

  10. I don’t have a scanner to do a side by side comparison; there are a lot of
    variables. The quality of the scanner will make a big difference. Using
    this technique, the lens/body combo and the accuracy of the setup makes a
    difference. I’d guess a good high quality scanner will beat this method.
    OTOH, this method will probably beat a cheap scanner. And it’s certainly
    less expensive.

  11. 3M 568 Positionable Mounting Adhesive is what I use and it eliminates the
    bother of spraying, exposing myself and other people to fumes and it is
    also a cleaner, faster process.

  12. If you spray glue on the board, it will get sticky and will be harder to
    trim. If you trace first you will be wasting you time because it will be
    way too hard to align the print with the trace and at the end you’ll find
    out that the way his showing in the video is just easier, it takes a bit of
    practice but it’s not hard at all.

  13. I just print them to self adhesive vinyl (up to 61″ shorter side) then I
    can apply the print anywhere with a smooth squeegee laminating tool.

  14. To hang these and prevent warping (which all foamcore does), make a wooden
    frame out of 3/4 inch poplar sticks. If it’s a 16×20 print, make a frame
    that’s 12×16 and use wood glue to mount on the back of the board in the
    center. This is a reverse frame. Hang it on the wall and looks like the
    print is floating off the wall. Since wooden frame is smaller and in the
    center, can’t see it. Also prevents the core from warping due to the

  15. @adoramaTV Mark could you show more videos on pre-production processes on
    model photoshoots, or just pre-production processes in general?

  16. Thanks for all of the great videos Mark. A couple of tips I would add to
    this tutorial are: 1. It’s more expensive but a steal vs. aluminum straight
    edge for cutting will last longer over time. Aluminum can actually get
    sliced up some over time by a blade where steal will not. 2. There are
    straight edges made for cutting which have a small lip on them. These are
    safer too. It has happened (experience speaking here) where the blade jumps
    up onto the straight edge and into the hand holding it….

  17. I love this idea. One question though, “How would you hang these foamboards
    on a wall without framing?” Any ideas?

  18. 100th like from an Indian 🙂 amzing guy you are mark i have sent you a mail
    with my question do look at it as its really gonna help many people its
    about Night Light painting with slower shutter speeds ..

  19. If you are going to be doing a lot of mounting I recommend using a XYRON
    instead of spray mount…. it really makes things better…. No spray going
    all over the place. When you run your print through a Xyron it adds a layer
    of glue to the back much like a sticker.

  20. Good work mark! I was curious how my labs were doing this. Now I’m certain
    that they are incredibly smart business people 🙂 -mM

  21. 3. This tip has saved me and my expensive artwork/ print more than a few
    times. You can cut on the outside of the edge so that only a small edge of
    the artwork is peaking out from the straight edge vs. putting the blade on
    the inside (on the side where the majority of the print is). If by some
    chance the blade moves away from the edge you will not slice into the print
    but away from it. If you did slice into it you could ruin it…..

  22. great tips, add to that a shop vac (with a throw away filter) near the
    spray area, and bull dog clips instead of people to hold the print.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.

For security, use of Google's reCAPTCHA service is required which is subject to the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.

I agree to these terms.

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.