Have some negatives you want to turn into digital images? Follow along as I show one way of accomplishing this task. This episode shows what to make, how to …
Video Rating: 4 / 5
Mounting Photos for Display: Ep 223: Digital Photography 1 on 1: Adorama Photography TV.
I don’t understand your slide holder, all I see is some big black disc and
I have no clue what it is. Also, why not an extension tube to get the image
to fill the sensor better? A color correction filter on the lens to
eliminate the blue hue right from the start? I have numerous color slides I
need to digitize so I’m looking for some kind of setup and I’ve been trying
to come up with a similar idea. I think we had the same TV dinner trays! :D
Very helpful! Thank you!
Thanks for sharing, valuable advise
8:22 “defecation”? closed captions fail
如果你可以翻譯中文: 我想說的是,這真是太棒了!
Super! I’m glad you found this helpful, Michael.
Man!!!! Your intense!!! Thorough and full of ALL the information!!! Tiz a
great vid 🙂 Thank you 🙂
If you have a scanner with sufficient resolution, awesome! For those who
don’t, this is an alternative. Additionally, I’ve added a link in the
description someone who gets higher quality with a camera than a scanner.
Super! Glad you found it helpful, Valerie.
Awesome Greg. Glad you found it useful.
Hello, thanks so much for this easy demonstration video. I thought about
doing this, with my canon 20D 8.2mp while I have no photo scanner and I
will give it a try. My question is how does this set up compare to a
scanner. For instance, which work flow is faster with higher image quality
-because I’m concerned that my dslr sensor won’t be as detailed as a photo
scanner of a high dpi. I’m wondering if it’s worth the little effort to set
this up and photograph my negatives or wait on a scanner.
Lol. Put a negative on a scanner works for me
Thanks for letting me know you found this helpful. Hope to see you
subscribe.
I’m glad you found it helpful. Thanks for the feedback.
I’m glad you found it helpful. In this case, I’m using a negative holder
from an enlarger because it was at hand and convenient. But for other film
sizes for which I don’t have a holder, I’ve just used a piece of thin
cardboard with a hole cut in it taped into position. I’m moving the
negative by hand just by opening the holder, repositioning the negative and
closing it back up. Besides the conversion from negative to positive, the
rest of the post processing is just personal preference. Cheers.
Google translation: “If you can translate Chinese: I want to say is that
this is really great!” Thanks vensen358!
There are few different ways to play with the colors trought photoshop, I
just found out a couple and must say, this is genious.
you’re welcome.
So glad you liked it.
Very very helpful, thankyou
I am very much thankful to you posting the video. I was all these years
wondering what to do with my rare B/W genitives. You gave a very nice demo.
Thanks once gain
Thank You for ur post.. which makes it possible to make digital picture
easily in my low budget photography scheme… really adorable innovative
idea to be shared with others… Thanks once again… wishing to post such
type of innovative video for the benefit of the armature photographer
running in low budget..
I don’t have a scanner to do a side by side comparison; there are a lot of
variables. The quality of the scanner will make a big difference. Using
this technique, the lens/body combo and the accuracy of the setup makes a
difference. I’d guess a good high quality scanner will beat this method.
OTOH, this method will probably beat a cheap scanner. And it’s certainly
less expensive.
Yikes! Thanks for the catch hpept. Fixed.
3M 568 Positionable Mounting Adhesive is what I use and it eliminates the
bother of spraying, exposing myself and other people to fumes and it is
also a cleaner, faster process.
If you spray glue on the board, it will get sticky and will be harder to
trim. If you trace first you will be wasting you time because it will be
way too hard to align the print with the trace and at the end you’ll find
out that the way his showing in the video is just easier, it takes a bit of
practice but it’s not hard at all.
I just print them to self adhesive vinyl (up to 61″ shorter side) then I
can apply the print anywhere with a smooth squeegee laminating tool.
To hang these and prevent warping (which all foamcore does), make a wooden
frame out of 3/4 inch poplar sticks. If it’s a 16×20 print, make a frame
that’s 12×16 and use wood glue to mount on the back of the board in the
center. This is a reverse frame. Hang it on the wall and looks like the
print is floating off the wall. Since wooden frame is smaller and in the
center, can’t see it. Also prevents the core from warping due to the
sticks.
@adoramaTV Mark could you show more videos on pre-production processes on
model photoshoots, or just pre-production processes in general?
As usual very nicely done…great step by step..wish I could have the tools
available…….regards….O
is that other guy in the video ryan seacrest?
Thanks for all of the great videos Mark. A couple of tips I would add to
this tutorial are: 1. It’s more expensive but a steal vs. aluminum straight
edge for cutting will last longer over time. Aluminum can actually get
sliced up some over time by a blade where steal will not. 2. There are
straight edges made for cutting which have a small lip on them. These are
safer too. It has happened (experience speaking here) where the blade jumps
up onto the straight edge and into the hand holding it….
I love this idea. One question though, “How would you hang these foamboards
on a wall without framing?” Any ideas?
100th like from an Indian 🙂 amzing guy you are mark i have sent you a mail
with my question do look at it as its really gonna help many people its
about Night Light painting with slower shutter speeds ..
@YipKuSing All hail our new king!
Two sided sticking foil is better than glue spray
what kind of paper did you use to print the photos?
@Fearlessroby You can use any photo paper.
Mark is the man.
How would you mount just the picture to the wall if you don’t want to frame
it?
Nice big ass printer ! Name ?
If you are going to be doing a lot of mounting I recommend using a XYRON
instead of spray mount…. it really makes things better…. No spray going
all over the place. When you run your print through a Xyron it adds a layer
of glue to the back much like a sticker.
Good work mark! I was curious how my labs were doing this. Now I’m certain
that they are incredibly smart business people 🙂 -mM
3. This tip has saved me and my expensive artwork/ print more than a few
times. You can cut on the outside of the edge so that only a small edge of
the artwork is peaking out from the straight edge vs. putting the blade on
the inside (on the side where the majority of the print is). If by some
chance the blade moves away from the edge you will not slice into the print
but away from it. If you did slice into it you could ruin it…..
great tips, add to that a shop vac (with a throw away filter) near the
spray area, and bull dog clips instead of people to hold the print.